Category Archives: Main Course

Seasons Change: Bœuf Bourguignon

I woke up this morning to the all too familiar dark grey clouds of a chilly autumn Nordic morning.  Yesterday was The Final Day of Summer, and if you weren’t outside enjoying it here in Copenhagen, you might’ve been the only one.   Every street I aimlessly roamed was filled with beaming moment-seizers, devouring ice cream cones and beers in as little clothing as humanly possible.  Last ditch effort at vitamin D absorption, no doubt.

Nørrebro

But alas, Copenhagen’s familiar face is back, and I imagine she’ll be sticking around awhile.  You may never catch me admitting this in public, but I’m pretty excited about fall.  Rainy days and grey mornings mean “hygge” to me, as much as I consciously long for sunshine when it’s absent.  They also mean finally getting things done that I put off in favor of basking in the sunshine all summer long, and dinner parties, and slow-cooked stews expelling delicious aromas that permeate your entire building.

During the summer I can’t bear the idea of eating warm things, and more importantly cooking warm things in an already hot kitchen.  But truth be told, I’m desperate to add them back to my meals by about mid-August.  I think this might be a body constitution thing – heavy and warm foods ultimately feel grounding for me (for you Ayurvedic Dosha fans out there, I’m indeed a textbook Kapha).  Conflicting with this need was the desire to have more sun, and so I strategically planned a trip to Seattle to visit family and old friends for the last two weeks of August in order to get an extension on my summer.  And extend my summer did, but what I also got was an extension on my wanton need for stew.

When seasons change I tend to have this pulsating need to follow suit.  While you’re lucky enough to not be in my head right now, I’ve already rearranged my entire apartment and organized my attic in my mind.  These are the sorts of things that happen when I become anxious, and feel the winds pick back up again – a typical reaction to seasons changing.  It’s at these moments that I subconsciously acknowledge that now is a good time to spend a day in my kitchen.  And what a better way to come back to earth than the earthy aromas of bœuf bourguignon?

I have always associated bœuf bourguignon with France.  Until this morning, I had actually never dared attempt it myself, sure that it would never match the expectations set while sitting in a 400 year old home in the Champagne region of France as my good friend’s husband – a chef – made a pot of it over a real fire in the chimney in a dutch oven that looked like it might’ve belonged to his great grandparents it was so used.  He let it simmer there for eight hours, during which we explored the region, caught up on each other’s lives over an old wooden farm table, played with their children, reminisced about the days working at Château de Nitray and about how long ago 21 years old feels now.  I remember thinking then that there was no way I’d ever be able to duplicate that moment, or those flavors, ever.

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But this weekend I was determined to try.  I spent my afternoon yesterday at one of my favorite Copenhagen places, Torvehallerne, absorbing all of the delectable things on display set out specifically to tempt every passer by.  I restrained from buying more figs, because I’ve eaten them already four times this week.  Already sure a stew was in my future, I eventually ended up at Kødbilen to see what was on order.  After a friendly conversation about the muscle fibers in the hind legs of a cow versus those in the front, I walked away with 2.5kg of grassfed Angus for 250kr and a plan to finally attempt the “impossible.”

While I was certainly not transported back to France, I have to admit that this stew served every purpose I intended it to.  Upon the first bite I felt my feet land back on the ground.  I (momentarily, at least) have stopped reorganizing and rearranging and have come back into the present, ready for the wind, rain, chilly mornings, and dark afternoons having coffee or wine over “hygge” (candles) with friends I never knew I was missing until I found them.

This recipe was inspired by Gordon Ramsay.

BŒUF BOURGUIGNON with MASHED CELERIAC

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INGREDIENTS:

  • 3 tsp rendered goose fat
  • 1kg Angus shoulder beef, cubed
  • 125g lardons (or thick slices of bacon)
  • 350g shallots, peeled and quartered
  • 250g whole chestnut mushrooms
  • 3 garlic cloves, sliced
  • 1 bouquet garni (I used 4 leek leaves, 4 thyme sprigs, 5 bay leaves, an unpeeled carrot and some black peppercorns)
  • 1 tbsp tomato purée
  • 750ml Bourgogne
  • 600g celeriac, peeled and cut into 1/2 inch cubes
  • 2 tbsp olive oil
  • rosemary & thyme sprigs
  • 2 bay leaves
  • a couple pinches of cardamom
  • salt & pepper, to taste

DIRECTIONS:

Preheat oven to 160 degrees (C).  Heat goose fat in a large dutch oven or other oven-proof casserole over medium heat.  Add the beef, seasoning with salt and pepper, turning until all sides are browned.  You may need to do this in multiple batches – I had to do it in three.  Once your first batches of meat are browned, remove from heat and strain over a bowl, reserving any drained juices.

Once the meat has finished and has been removed from the casserole, add lardons (bacon), shallots, mushrooms, garlic, and the bouquet garni.  Stir until everything is slightly softened and golden, and then add the tomato paste, tossing to coat.  Add the meat back to the mixture along with the drained juices.

Add the wine and about 100ml of water to the stew – the liquid should not cover the ingredients.  Bring to a boil and use a wooden spoon to scrape up the caramelized fats on the bottom of the casserole.  Cover the Dutch oven with a cartouche of aluminum foil (should fit the inside of the Dutch oven perfectly, leftovers trimmed) and place in the oven, cooking from 3-4 hours (meat should be very tender).

To make the mashed celeriac, heat the olive oil in a large and deep frying pan.  Add the cubed celeriac, seasoning generously with salt and pepper.  After about 5 minutes, add the thyme and rosemary, bay leaves, and cardamom, as well as 200 ml of water.  Turn heat to low, partially cover, and steam for 30 minutes on low heat.

Remove herb sprigs and bay leaves and mash the celeriac with a potato masher and finish with a dash of olive oil and season to taste with salt and pepper.  Spoon the bœuf bourguignon into bowls and add a spoonful of mashed celeriac on top.

Serves 4-6

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Comeback Cabbage

So summer is in full swing here in Copenhagen, and it’s been about 9 months since I’ve written a post, and I’ve gotta be honest, not only have I not really been cooking up a storm, but I have also just not felt like writing about it.  A lot of my meals at home in the past several months have been makeshift versions of what someone might consider a meal – typically something thrown together that isn’t really worthy of a photograph, or the pain of giving someone the idea of making it themselves.  I have also eaten a lot of roasted chickens.

But alas, I spent some time wandering around Torvehallerne yesterday looking for some much-needed inspiration, because who are we kidding, I love to cook, and I should do it more often.  I was craving vegetables, and wanted something in season (which obviously is your only choice at a farmers market), and had just read a whole chapter in Animal, Vegetable, Miracle about all the beautiful leafy greens that are in season this time of year.

Admittedly I was after kale.  I’m pretty much always after kale when I’m craving leafy greens, and typically I never can track it down unless I go to Istedgade in Vesterbro, where they sell kilo bags of it for 15kr.  At Torvehallerne the greens on display right now are romaine hearts, various fresh sprouts, something resembling buk choy, and heads of savoy cabbage.  Figuring savoy cabbage might roast the same way kale does (getting crispy on the darker leaves), I picked up a head, a bag full of cherries (to munch on while roasting my cabbage), and went on my merry way.

Until this afternoon I wasn’t exactly sure what to pair the cabbage with, and then I opened my fridge and stared at the contents (for probably way too long): butter, yogurt, bacon, eggs…

It’s at this point that should admit that I have an unhealthy preoccupation with poached eggs.  They intimidate the hell out of me – I mean, the idea of dropping an egg into a pot of just boiling vinegar water making a funnel…it all sounds so complicated and the opposite of fool-proof (and I know from experience that attempting this would result in the sacrifice of at least a couple eggs before I got it right).  But even despite this reality, I still believe that poached eggs are the perfect way to cook an egg.  Lots of studies out there suggest that over-cooking the egg yolk can lead to health problems (while eggs themselves are actually very good for you), so that only validates my love.

One of my favorite brunch places in Copenhagen, Manfreds, makes a killer poached egg.  I have always admired their talents, and a craving for their eggs and homemade sausage is all I need as motivation to pull myself out of bed on a Sunday morning.  On a recent trip, I sat at the bar with friends, and I finally learned their secret: they don’t actually poach the “french way”.  They throw the whole egg, with its shell, into a sous vide!!!  While anyone who knows me knows I love an awesome kitchen appliance, I’m obviously not about to go buy a sous vide in order to have a poached egg (yes, I want one, really bad, because seriously look at the meat you can make with it – Relæ has been known to make meat slow-cooked in sous vides for up to 68 hours), so I decided to go for the next best thing – makeshift sous vide with a pot and some good old fashioned hot water.  AKA: coddled eggs, onsen tamago (japanese method), slow-poached eggs.

And the final addition to my three ingredient dinner?  Bacon.  Obviously.

ROASTED SAVOY CABBAGE WITH POACHED EGGS & CRISPY BACON

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INGREDIENTS:

  • 1/2 head of savoy cabbage
  • three eggs, at room temperature
  • 4 strips of bacon
  • salt, pepper, olive oil

DIRECTIONS:

Preheat oven to 180C/375F.

Cut your savoy cabbage head half in half (to make two quarters), and cut out the core.  Halve the quarters and slice into 1-inch cubes widthwise.  Separating the layers, throw into a large bowl and toss with olive oil, salt, and pepper to taste.  Spread the bite-size leaves onto a pan covered with parchment paper, and put into the oven.  Toss after 7-8 minutes, and roasted for a total of 15.

Once the cabbage is in the oven, bring a small pot of enough salted water to completely cover an egg to boil.  Once boiling, remove from heat, add the eggs, and cover with a lid.  After 3 minutes, rotate the eggs to ensure that the whites distribute evenly.  Let sit for 15 minutes total.

Cook bacon according to instructions and to desired crispiness (I assume we all know how to cook bacon here…).

Assemble the roasted savoy cabbage on a plate making indents for your eggs, and gently crack the eggs and release them onto the cabbage (if you’re worried they might not be cooked enough, it might be a good idea to first crack the eggs into a bowl).  Egg whites should be relatively runny, and the yolks will be creamy and just perfectly thickened.  Season with salt and pepper, and sprinkle crumble bacon on top.

Makes enough for 1 – double the recipe for 2

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Crisp Roasted Chicken

You know how it’s usually the simplest things that give you the most pleasure?

Find yourself a free-range organic chicken, give it a little water bath, do a dance with it for 5 seconds, laugh about how funny “naked” chickens are, cover it with salt (I’m serious, COVER, like, it should look like it just snowed salt on your chicken) give it a little bit of pepper, and throw it (gently) into the oven for an hour.  A little thyme in the juices after it’s out, a bit of butter on the breast, and dipped in dijon mustard, and…well…the result is glorious.  The salt helps remove all the moisture from the oven, which makes for a delicious crispy skin which no one I’ve ever fed this chicken to has ever been able to resist.  An easy (and cheap!) dinner for 4 (or in our house, two very hungry adults), and pairs well with just about any green vegetable (I like sautéed green beans with sliced garlic).

Once you’ve finished devouring the chicken (try the oysters on the middle back, that’s my favorite part!), put the carcass into your crockpot, cover with water, throw in some garlic, onions, parsley, celery (and celery leaves), a splash of vinegar, and a couple bay leaves, set to low and cook for 24-48 hours.  The longer you cook, the better quality the broth.  Check out some good tips by Nourished Kitchen about bone broth here.  After a couple days your broth should be a little like gelatin if it cools to room temperature, and that’s when you know you’ve done it right.  Lots of good nutrients and worth keeping around for either daily consumption (ideal world, if you don’t use it for sauces or gravy already), or approaching colds or other ailments (bone broth is particularly effective for constipation or other digestive problems related to the gut).

CRISP ROASTED CHICKEN

INGREDIENTS:

  • 1 whole ~3lb chicken (I buy Bornholmers Høn from Irma)
  • salt, pepper, dried thyme
  • kitchen twine
  • grassfed organic butter
  • dijon mustard

DIRECTIONS:

Preheat the oven to 225C (450F).

Rinse and pat dry both the inside and outside of the chicken.  Place in an 8×11 baking dish.  Liberally pour salt into the cavity of the chicken, and then secure legs with kitchen twine.  Liberally salt the rest of the chicken.  The idea is to give the chicken a nice white hue from all the salt.  Season with freshly ground pepper.  Cook in the oven for 1 hour.

After an hour, remove the chicken and dump about a tablespoon of dried thyme into the drippings of the chicken at the bottom of the baking dish.  Using a large spoon, mix up the drippings and thyme, and baste the chicken with the thyme drippings until all areas of the skin are remoistened.

Carve chicken and serve with butter (if desired) on the meat and dip in dijon mustard.

Serves 4

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Bacon-Wrapped Salmon with Pesto & Roasted Asparagus

I’m not sure a day goes by where I don’t think about eating bacon.  You might’ve already gathered that by the praise I made of the delicious stuff in my Broccoli Bacon Salad post from earlier this week.

When I decided to stop being a vegetarian back in 2010, my first meat was bacon.  I had been planning a trip to Southern Spain with my then “new” boyfriend and figured it would be a sin to go to Andalusía and NOT eat pork products.  While we were in Granada, we tried some mountain air dried jamón ibérico and I still occasionally have dreams about it, it was that good.  I even smuggled some of it with me back to the US in the lining of my suitcase, and spent the next three weeks garnishing just about everything I ate with it.

So back to bacon.  Even though I generally try to avoid Magasin (a large Danish department store with the most amazing basement gourmet market), I have found myself in there a couple times lately because they seem to have the most diverse selection of unhomogenized dairy products.  They also have a delectable way of presenting everything, and I have been eying their bacon-wrapped salmon for about four months now.  So today, I decided to give it a shot.

Asparagus is in season and out in full force in Copenhagen, and a friend of mine just posted a photo of some she roasted in the oven last night that gave me inspiration, so I pass on her recipe to you.

This meal is particularly awesome because it took less than 35 minutes to make the magic happen.  Nothing quite like healthy, delicious AND fast, amiright?

BACON-WRAPPED SALMON with PESTO & ROASTED ASPARAGUS

Ingredients:

  • 2 filets of salmon, skin removed (if you’re as good as I am at removing skin from salmon, ask your fish monger to do it for you)
  • 4-6 fairly thick slices of free-range bacon (depending on how much you love bacon, and how big your salmon filets are)
  • 4 tbsp Pesto, divided (mine isn’t homemade today because we were in a hurry to eat, but it is made with real olive oil. Click the link to see my favorite homemade pesto recipe)
  • one bunch of organic asparagus (about 250 grams)
  • extra virgin olive oil
  • balsamic vinegar
  • salt & pepper

Directions:

Preheat oven to 180 degrees (C).

Wash and “break” asparagus at their natural breaking point (see this video to see what I’m talking about).  Lay them out in a baking dish, and drizzle olive oil over them.  Toss with a dash of balsamic vinegar, and salt & pepper to taste.  Set aside.

Roll up each salmon filet (skinned side should be on the inside) and secure with 2-3 slices of bacon each (the bacon should be sticky enough to hold the salmon together, but if it’s not, feel free to use wooden toothpicks).  Place salmon rolls salmon side down in a baking dish, and add 2 tbsp of pesto to the middle of each salmon roll.

Cover the salmon baking dish with aluminum foil.  Put salmon and asparagus into the oven at the same time, and bake for 20-25 minutes.

Serves 2

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Cauliflower Crust Pizza

Yeah, you read that right, not only is it my first recipe on Vegetarian Rehab, but it’s also a recipe that DEFIES THE LIMITS of grain-free life.

I cannot express in words how bad I have missed pizza ever since I became grain-free.  I think B misses it too, but he doesn’t dare tempt me because of what happened the last time we had pizza.

To summarize, I had a bender weekend back in January, and it involved pizza.  After a failed attempt by my wonderful boyfriend to poach some air-dried, salted cod we bought while up in Northern Norway (it tasted *almost* like rubber…), we decided to order some pizza from the local (terrible quality) pizzeria.  One of the roughest parts about living outside of New York is that if you eff up dinner after 9pm on a Saturday night, you’ll be hard-pressed to find an open grocery store or other food place that offers something healthy to eat to replace it.  Even most restaurants stop serving dinner after 9:30pm.

And so we ordered pizza.  And you know how when you’re down, you might as well go ALL THE WAY down?  I had a beer that night too.

How’d that go, you wonder?  Let’s just put it this way: NEVER. AGAIN.

I have never been so miserable in my life (okay, that’s probably a small exaggeration).  But seriously, my stomach bloated so bad it made my back hurt (I imagine it’s kind of like the way being 8 months preggo makes your back hurt), and my heart basically started beating as though I had run a marathon, except that I couldn’t move, so obviously that wasn’t possible.  Then I got constipated for three days.  It was…awesome.

Needlesstosay, I had a weekend whirlwind trip to New York to see some friends (and buy my very first apple computer) back in February and despite my urging need to have pizza while there, I controlled myself and filled up on meat (and a few vegetables for good measure) at Plataforma Churrascaria instead (that place was fabulous, by the way).  And ever since that bloating incident, I’ve been scouring the interwebs for a decent Cauliflower Crust Pizza recipe that didn’t require a microwave.

I finally found one by a lady named Casey Cooke.  From what I know about her, she promotes low-fat stuff, and since that’s the opposite of the point of this blog, I’ll let you google her if you want to see what she’s about.

So without further ado…

CAULIFLOWER CRUST PIZZA

Sausagey, cauliflowery deliciousness

Ingredients:

  • One head of cauliflower, stems removed and cut into one-inch pieces
  • 3 egg-whites (try it with the yolks too, those are good for you!)
  • 250 grams fresh mozzarella cheese (the real Italian stuff), divided in half and chopped
  • salt, pepper, dried basil, dried parsley and garlic powder, to taste
  • tomato sauce (if you’re buying from the store, be sure to check the label for sugar)
  • one red pepper, thinly sliced
  • one green pepper, thinly sliced
  • one half white onion, thinly sliced
  • 325 grams Italian sausage, encasing removed and broken into 1 inch pieces (I got mine here, and it had sage in it)

Directions:

Preheat oven to 450 degrees F (225C).  Cut a piece of parchment paper to fit a medium sized baking pan.

Steam cauliflower until you can easily pierce it with a fork.  Then drain it and put it into a food-processor and purée until smooth (I have a small one, so I did this in two batches).

Blend the cauliflower, one half of the chopped mozzarella, and egg whites in a bowl and mix well.  Add spices to taste (or in my case, to smell).  Spread cauliflower mix evenly on the parchment paper into a rectangle and put it in the oven for about 20 minutes, or until the edges start to turn golden brown and the center has set.

While the crust is in the oven, put the sausage pieces into a pan over low heat and cook until done.  Taste a few to, you know, make sure. 😉

Remove finished crust, let cool for a couple minutes, and then spread the tomato sauce on it, leaving an inch perimeter around the pizza. (I didn’t give a measurement in the ingredients because I feel like everyone has a different preference on their pizza sauce amounts.  I like my pizza drier, and especially since the cauliflower crust is already moist, I didn’t need more than about a half cup.)

Next, layer on onions and peppers, and then put the pizza back in the oven for another ten minutes until they are cooked through (longer if you don’t care if they’re crispy or not; we like them on the crispy side in our house).  Add the rest of the mozzarella cheese, and the cooked sausage and return to oven.  Beware that the mozza will melt quickly, so keep an eye on it this time, and remove when at desired level of doneness (if you leave it in too long, the cheese will begin to brown pretty quickly).

Remove from oven, let sit for a few minutes so you don’t burn your tongue, cut into four squares, and then enjoy!

Serves 4, unless you’re really hungry like we were, in which case, it serves 2. 



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